Miuccia Prada Fringes Up Emporio Armani for Milan Fashion Week

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons may love philosophizing backstage after their shows, but they let the clothes talk on this catwalk. Fringed dresses bloomed with applique flowers that gave the individual blossoms a shifting depth, and long skeins of metal fringe were used to make skirts “built like jewelry.” Prada shirts sprouted applique florals, classic polo knits got faux fur along the seams, and lightweight anoraks came in various Prada-esque hues. These embellishments were meant to “sophisticate thoughts and allow a reconsideration of simple things,” as the designers put it.

This was one of the most empowering Prada collections in recent memory, designed when many women felt the need to declare their strength by wearing strong shapes and assertive prints. It also spoke to the current renaissance of decorative aesthetics, with embroidered swirls of crystals, silver eyelets on dresses, and long strands of fringe that looked like jewelry. Miuccia tapped into the inspiration of her grandfather Mario Prada’s 1913 moire silk handbag, which was revived for this show. “He was a great designer, but he was an artist as well, and the decorative language of his time can still be relevant today,” she said backstage with Simons.

The front row at the Prada show was an A-list lineup of fashionistas, including Spanish idol Rosalia, Kylie Jenner, Sofia Richie, and Scarlett Johansson. Emma Watson, who recently starred in The Circle, also appeared in a chic black dress with a hairbow bow epitomizing the trend. Other guests included model Stella McCartney in a tweed jacket and miniskirt, actresses Diana Silvers and Victoria Beckham, and TV personality Hunter Schafer.

Elsewhere, Giorgio Armani kept it light with breezy looks for his Emporio Armani line, dressing models in floaty tops paired with shorts and long patterned skirts. Several Asian guests walked the runway, including models Mei Nagano and Somi and influencers ENHYPHEN, Sana, and Win Metawin in light pastel dresses and crop tops. The SS2024 collection is available now.

In the last days of Milan Fashion Week, designer Ralph Lauren Purple Label opened its first show in the city. At the same time, British labels JW Anderson and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy also debuted their newest collections. In the next few days, Paris Fashion Week will also kick off with a host of fashion-forward brands showcasing their latest collections.

The opening look of the Prada Womenswear SS2024 collection was a repeat of the all-grey shirt and shorts look seen at the Menswear SS24 presentation in June, which juxtaposed large shoulders and tiny waists. But the rest of the show took a different turn, with the catwalk split in half by clear slime pouring down in the middle, a feature from the brand’s previous menswear show in June. The slime was then replaced with a layer of white fabric, which the models then stepped over to begin their journey down the runway.

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